I have not used store color in many years, but I did use it as a teen for quite a few years so here goes...
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Really? I had the impression that they were different and that the difference in the strength of the developer corresponded to the "number on the box" like 8 or 9 or 10 . . . is that not right? or is the difference in the strength of the developer for the drug store boxed products not a great as the difference in the strengths for the ones like at Sally's that I think have numbers like 10, 20, 30, and 40.
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In box color there are 3 things
1. the type of color:
usually temporary 6-8 shps is labeled 1 (think loving care, does not have a bottle of developer it is premixed) or
30 day color semi (think nat instincts) is usually a level 2
and permanent color or hiliting kits or ultra blonde type colors are level 3
anything that lightens your natural color is permanent although that does not mean the color will last as we all know it fades
temp or semi color will not make you any lighter it only darkens
if you want to go any lighter or cover gray you would want to go with permanent
2. the # on the box (like 8G) is referring to the darkness or lightness of the color in the kit, what it will deposit. that is why semi colors say choose a level or two lighter than desired because is will only get darker.
3. the letter is the tone/shade of the color gold, ash, neutral, etc.
unless it is a high lift ultra blond type color kit that is made for getting the hair a very light blonde, permanent level 3 colors in a box probably have standard lift 20 v peroxide.
ok, onto that...
10, 20, 30 or 40 volume peroxide is the developer. what is does is lighten your natural color. it breaks down the natural pigment in your hair cortex, and as it lightens and breaks down the color, it goes through stages of red, orange, gold, yellow. the difference in these is the percent of peroxide. the higher the volume the FASTER AND STRONGER IT WORKS. 10 v is usually when you want the same level or just a touch lighter. 20 vol is called standard lift. it usually works for most purposes, it lightens a little and covers grey. 30 and 40 v are used on very dark or hard to lift hair or in extra light blonding kits.
they all lighten. with color the reaason the box says stay within two shades of your nat color is because 20 peroxide lifts appx two levels within the time limit that the color is supposed to be on. when you use color the first thing it does is lift then deposits color back in. with color a few minutes usually wont hurt, it just stops lifting and starts depositing after a while so with color how many levels you want to go up will be determined by the volume developer.
ok, i know its confusing!
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I also had the impression that one of the things that could go terribly wrong (brassy or even red wise) was when you try to go significantly lighter in color than what your natural color is -- and that the way to make hair lighter is to use a stronger developer or I think perhaps to a lesser extent to leave it on longer . . . or both
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correct!
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for the red situation, the only thing i can recommend is using a higher volume developer. if you are buying box color from the store, permanent color usually has standard lift 20 v peroxide developer, if you go to sallys or a local beauty supply they can give you 30 volume. it is extra lift. you may just want to get your color from somewhere like that and get a compatible developer to match. it will help lift your natural color a little more than the 20v so you will look a little brighter red.
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this was directed towards the problem that giftygirl was having, her red color not being as 'bright' as before. she would have to go to a little higher developer to get that extra lift. also maybe try a level lighter red, like instead of a 5 go to 6.
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I was also just thinking the other day - when you get it done professionally - they put you under a dryer - and use heat as part of the process - the last time I was at good will I saw one of those old fashioned home dryers with the hose and the big cap that blows up with warm air. . . would one of those be helpful? I bet I could find one for coloring my hair - if I looked around!
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this is only when you are using a HILITING OR BLEACH KIT. color should not be put under a dryer or heat (unless you are using a special 'color accelerator' that speed developing time- won't open that can of worms right now
) yes you could do that though. if your doing cap hilites, just put a plastic baggie on it so it doesn't dry out. if it drys it quits processing.
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explain more about how to get a decent home result if your hair is say naturally a very dark blond to a medium brown and you want to go for a medium blond or a bit lighter - with neither excessive brassy/red or too blue/ash? With things being the way they are right now I am looking to start doing it myself again. One thing that I have used in the past with varying success is something call "drabber" along with the other stuff in the box which I think is supposed to get rid of the red/brassiness.
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depending on how dark your med brown/dark blonde is i think you would probably want to go the sallys route and get color with 30 v standard 20 will probably lift you to a very orange/gold and will not be strong enough to cover when it deposits. from what it sounds like you are prob a level 5 or 6 wanting to be a level 8or 9. you would need to go with a neutral shade it is balanced. try to get a level color that either 8 or 9 prob 8 though to get enough deposit, and follow the directions don't leave on more than 5 minutes extra. the drabber is an ash toner basically, they can help with any brass or red.
PS: if you do this and it don't turn out right, don't hate me! its hard to say not being able to see your hair or formulate the color.
As far as 'chemically safe' I am assuming you mean how magazines and tv says color causes cancer and stuff. Women that colored their hair in the 70s and 80s are where those studies usually come from. Modern color formulas are safe, especially if you are only coloring your hair. Hairdressers that do color all day just need to wear gloves and avoid excess fumes, so you will be ok, unless you have had allergic reactions or something. Be wary of 'natural' hair color alot of them are just henna color. if you have used henna color you should not put any conventional color at all on your hair, you need to cut all the color out, you cannot color over. it will be very bad. so make sure what you were using wasn't henna color.
i have never came accross the tattoo warning. just don't get it in your eyes or stuff like that. if you are ttc or preg just ask the dr if its ok. most say it is.
definately take your friend up on prof shopping, you can get a good deal on shampoo/conditioners. professional products make a HUGE DIFFERENCE
and i am not saying that cause I am a professional. They just do, they are higher quality and will make a huge difference in color longevity, condition of hair, manageability. I do use them on myself. I take my cousin to the stores or order her stuff, so def do that.
ok me tired now!
hope that helps.
Hair Color Problems from PCOS? 
It's always this real brassy golden blonde- and anytime I get it done professionally, and I ask for them to make it more pale, it doesn't really work. It only turns greenish, and stays brassy. So I go back to home dying it- because I can mess it up myself for $20 vs. having it messed up for $100! :-/ What is going on? Do you think this could be hormone related?
